Basic Front Brake Job:
First thing to do when repairing or replacing front brakes is to push the piston back into the caliper. There are several ways to do it. Big plyers can be used to push in the piston, or a big C-clamp. If the rotors are not warped, or glazed, the next step is the pads to be removed out from the bracket, or calipers, then replaced with the new pads. Some pads come with shims to help prevent brake noise. Once both sides left, and right side calipers have the new pads in the brackets, reinstall the calipers, and wheels. Before driving the vehicle, the brake pedal needs to be pumped about 10 times. Once the brake pedal gets firm, then the vehicle is ready to be driven.
If the rotors are warped, or glazed, they should be resurfaced. If they are too thin to be resurfaced, then they need to be replaced. Signs of warped rotors are shaking during brakeing. If the steering wheel shakes, or the brake pedal pulsates during brakeing, those are signs of warped rotors
Front Brake Job II
Replacement of lines / rotors , or calipers on front brakes :
Loosen caliper from bracket. Loosen bracket bolts. Next, push in the piston back into the brake caliper if not replacing caliper. Loosen up the brake line from caliper. If replacing just hose, loosen top of hose with a wrench and lock plyers. Replace hose, tighten up hose on top end. Now tighten up the bottom part of the brake hose to the new / same caliper.
Now if replacing rotors or installing the same rotors, install the rotor, re-install the brake caliper bracket. Install new pads, make sure piston in the caliper is pused back in all the way. Tighten up all bolts.
Next side is to repeat the steps as described above.
Before re-installing the wheels, fill up master cylinder with propper brake fluid. Have someone pump the brake pedal 4 times, and hold the brake pedal down. Open up a bleeder screw on one caliper for 3 seconds while brake pedal goes all the way down to the floor board, and the brake pedal is being held down. Tighten up the bleeder screw, and repeat this process 4 times. Once complete, check master cylinder brake fluid level, and repeat this step on other side. The pedal should be firm, and should only go down 2 inches at the most.
Master Cylinder Replacement
Most cars & trucks replacing the master cylinder is simple, and only a half hour job. To replace the master cylinder, loosen up the brake lines from the master cylinder. There are between 2 & 4 lines to the master cylinder. Now by the brake booster, there are two nuts that hold the master cylinder in place. Remove the nuts, and on most cars / trucks, the master cylinder should come right out. Take old resivor out if the new master cylinder didnt come with a new one, and put it on the new master cylinder.
Next re-install the master cylinder, and tighten up both nuts. Add some brake fluid into the master cylinder. Pump the brake pedal about 5 times. Check the fluid level, and top it off. Re-install the brake lines, and tighten the lines up. Pump the brake pedal 4 times, loosen up one of the lines while the brake pedal is being held down. Air should come out of the line. Tighten up the line, and repeat this process 3 more times on the one line. Go to the next line, and repeat this process again. When air is out of the lines, brake fluid will come out of the line, and brake pedal should be firm. Bleed the brake calipers on the front, and bleed the brakes on the rear. When propperly done, the brake pedal should be firm, and not go down no more than 2 inches.
Signs of master cylinder going bad are brake pedal going down to the floor all the way, and or leaky master cylinder. When brake calipers fail, there are several signs. Moisture around the piston indicates a leak. Frozen brake caliper pistons. Caution should be observed when doing brakes.
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